Life on the Left Coast: Lasqueti Island

Latest moaning and groaning notwithstanding (last post), it wasn't ALL work through August and early September. Our first house guest, or should I say, our first Bunkie guest came for a few weeks. Maristella. We got to explore this new home and its geography together, making a point of really enjoying the summer that had come so late. Lots of time later to unpack that final box.

Now it was particularly important to get outside and enjoy the August summer weather as July was not so good. But whatever the weather, "hot" or cool, all I am is cold. Seems that my internal body temperature is still very much in Asian mode and I have been cold ever since I landed here. Bit by bit I have been adding layers, merino wool tops, heavy cotton sweat shirts (this only good for summer evenings - a lousy choice for when the rains really do come) and ... socks.

I didn't own a pair of socks. When Maristella and I went down to Victoria to spend a week at Haro House, I took myself sock shopping. The Left Coast is so quiche. Organic cotton, hemp and bamboo fabric. Costs a lot, worth it, feels terrific, unabashedly call themselves "the best sox" ever (this is true), claims that if you wear them you can help save the planet. (Ha! See Planet Earth Wants You to Leave to see just how much this will make a difference.) Still, I can see myself getting in touch with my inner hippie.

When I first went to Asia the heat was overwhelming. I suffered huge meltdowns at unforeseen and usually potentially embarrassing times that could only be helped by sitting down for 5 or 10 minutes and pressing ice against my wrists and neck, just above the collar bone. That was the only way I could finally get my internal body temperature in sync, otherwise it felt like I was an overheating furnace with a broken thermostat. However I eventually did adjust to it and now, four years later, with that warm Asian interior body thermostat setting, coastal British Columbia is freezing to me now. No doubt that too will change, with time, but meanwhile I am looking sartorially interesting to say the least, bundled up against the heat of this so-called summer.

This picture following was taken outside of Haro House by the water, in the afternoon, in mid-August. It was a "hot" summer day.

Freezing in mid-summer. Multiple layers of shirt, sweatshirt, Lao silk wrap. new Sox (note abandoned summer flip flops). Also note the reflection on the window - "my" view across the Strait to San Juan Island and the mountains beyond, how wonderful is that.

One day we took the passenger ferry from French Creek, which is about a 7 minute drive away, across to Lasqueti Island - a day trip to visit friends who have a cottage there. Now Lasqueti Island is a place that I have known about for a very long time, although until now I really had no idea what it really was. Or, especially, WHERE it was. For such a long time, before we started visiting here in past years, the coastal area between the mainland and Vancouver Island was only an abstraction, an idea of a place. When I knew of Lasqueti Island way back when, I thought of it as some isolated place somewhere. This is true, to some degree, but now as I explore this geography around my personal ground zero, I can see "isolated" is no way to describe anything around here.

Back in the day, the time it came into my view, Lasqueti Island was home to a lot of 1960's era travellers, as well as not a few south of the border so-called "draft dodgers". Some were people seeking a back to the land life and some sought fellowship through co-ops and communes. Whatever, you really had to be seeking a certain lifestyle, which is still true today.

To this day, Lasqueti Island is off the grid. No BC Hydro. Alternative energy has been around here from necessity for a very long time. There is a permanent resident population of 350. There is no car ferry, so visitors come on a passenger ferry. Residents bring a car for use on the island over on a barge which is how all the building supplies and larger items are shipped over. There is one restaurant/bar right by the ferry dock, another store/restaurant, a couple of seasonal B&B's, a cookie stand and that's about it to the casual observer. No town. No stores. No tourism there there. It is not a place for tourists to come, although the curious still do. You could bring a bike and cycle the roads on this 28 square mile island, but you would see nothing. Most of the houses off these roads are down a lane behind the trees. Very private.

The "on your honor" munchie shack, just up from the ferry dock. Payment on the honor system. But wait... may not be all that it seems...

Hmmm. Trouble in paradise?

And also very community. The scene at the ferry dock of people meeting and greeting shows that this is the island's "town square". Their website is a bulletin board - fascinating to read the postings; this and that wanted, or for sale, or to give away; ride wanted to Vancouver, Ride available to Vancouver; so-and-so won't have her usual table at the weekly market but will be back next week; an Alexandra Morton petition about the fish farms, please sign...

Lasqueti Island Passenger Ferry Dock

People who have lived here over the generations have been here because they wanted a certain kind of life that is unique and different from the Vancouver Island, other larger populated islands, or the Mainland. It's always been like that and it still is. Although, like everything, things change.

Once upon a time the island was once known, or at least rumored, to be a big source of growing marijuana. No doubt that hat has long since passed to large lower mainland gro-ops. Although I'm told, on very good authority, that pot is still being grown in those remote island fields. Unfortunately on our short day visit I was unable to confirm. In 2004 the police raided some property on the island, bringing in huge helicopters, succeeding in blowing some solar panels off roofs and scaring the children and livestock. They (the police) issued a statement saying that Lasqueti Island was a "hotbed" of illegal marijuana growing, and went on to imply a link with organized crime. Oh please. The residents weren't about to take this lying down and public meetings were held, complaining at the slander or libel or whatever you call it against them and scoring a lot of media attention and a public apology from the police.

Here's the thing. This wondrous island that I have known about, and been so curious about, for so long happens to be right across the strait from our beach. What used to be to my mind, so remote, so away and so much mystery... is now part of our geography. One of those many shadows of islands out on the horizon - now I can identify the shape of beautiful and quiet Lasqueti Island.